Product Details

Specifications

Stable fence gate tie ring:
1.Galvanized
2.Easy for lock and open
3.Simple design

DESCRIPTION

Tie ring for fence gate:

Simple design,with 4 screw holes
Easy for installing
Galvanized

HORSE STABLE DESIGN GUIDE

Are you building a new stable for your horse? Or, perhaps you are renovating another

building to serve as a stable. In either case, here are the basics of designing a safe,

comfortable stable for your horse.Although the recommended size for a foaling stall is

the same as a regular stall, many people like more generous sized boxes for mares

and foals. The easiest way to provide roomy accommodations for mares and foals is

to take the partitions out between two regular stalls. Even if you don't plan to have a

foal, it is handy to design at least one stall with this in mind.

Standing or Tie Stalls

Standing or tie stalls need to be wide enough for a horse to lie down in comfortably.

Depending on the size of the horse, they should be at least 4ft to 5ft (1.5m) wide and

8ft (2.4m) long. There is usually a manger for hay at the front of a standing stall,

so the width of this should be considered. A pony will need a shorter and narrower

standing stall than a larger draft breed.There will also need to be a sturdy structure

to tie to. It should be high enough so the horse cannot get its leg over the tie rope,

but still be able to reach feed and water.In both standing and box stalls, the walls

should be solid, sturdy lumber to at least 4.6ft (1.4m) high, and above that, grill or

sturdy mesh so that horses can see each other. This also helps with ventilation and

light.

Stall Doors

Stall doors can be either swinging or sliding. In either case there should be latches that

undo easily, but that horses cannot tamper with (many a stall Houdini has escaped and

let out a few friends for an overnight stable ransacking-a clean-up headache for the

owner, as well as a possible safety and health hazard).Swinging doors should open out

into the alley, and be kept shut at all other times. Sliding doors should slide smoothly.

Grain room doors should be locked. Doors should be at least 4 ft (1.2m) wide.

Aisles or Alleyways

Alleyways between stalls should be at least 10ft wide (3m).

Flooring

The most commonly used flooring in stables is concrete. If the surface is roughened, it is

non-slip. Concrete, pavers, or stone floors will not drain naturally, and drains may have

to be placed in stalls. Many stables do not have drainage. This means stalls must be well

cleaned to avoid ammonia build up. Hard flooring such as pavers or concrete are also

easier to disinfect and can be hosed down if necessary. These floors are harder on a

horse's legs though. Many people put stall mats made of rubber like material under the

bedding for greater comfort.If you have sandy soil, you may decide to leave the earth and

not lay down a solid floor. This flooring is easier on the horses legs, may be warmer and

quieter than an un-matted solid floor. Earth floors are harder to clean, and will need

digging out and replacing if the dirt becomes too saturated.

Ceilings

Many older barns designed for cattle have low ceilings that are not high enough for

horses. Sometimes these barns can be raised, or the floor dug out if drainage patterns

permit. This tends to be a costly procedure. Ceiling height should allow the horse to raise

its head comfortably without worrying about hitting the ceiling. A standard room

height of 8ft (2.4m) might be fine for ponies and small horses, but taller horses will

need higher ceilings. Furthermore, make sure there are no protruding nails from second

story flooring or other obstructions that horse could hit accidentally when it raises its head.

Lighting All lighting and wiring should be installed with safety in mind. All plug-ins in

stables should be GFIC receptacles, and wiring should be rodent and moisture proof.

Check what type of lighting is recommended for outdoor use in your area. Fluorescent

bulbs may not work well in extreme cold. There should be safety cages around light bulbs,

and they should be placed where horses cannot reach them. Switches should be well out

of reach of curious horses. Try to arrange lighting so there is a minimum of dark or

shadowed areas. Work areas, tack and feed rooms should be well light for safety.

Windows

Windows provide natural ventilation and lighting. Incorporate as many as possible in

your stable design. They should be covered with a grill or mesh so horses can't break

the glass. Windows that swing open may work better over the long run then sliders

that tend to fill with dirt and chaff making them stick.

Feeding and Watering Equipment

You'll need to decide how you will water your horses when they are stabled. The most

economical option is a bucket hung upon the wall. Buckets on the floor can get knocked

over making a mucky mess. In the winter, heated buckets keep the water free of ice.

Electrical receptacles with GFCIs will be needed close by for each bucket. Automatic

waters mean no carrying sloshing buckets, but it is more difficult to monitor the horse's

intake. You won't know how much (or little) your horse is drinking. Some horses may

be fussy about drinking out of them, and they need to be insulated against freezing

temperatures. The bowls need frequent cleaning.A bucket on the wall can suffice for

feeding concentrates out of, or you can purchase wall mounted feeding tubs. Hay can be

served on the floor-wasteful if the horse throws it around and soils it. Or you can build a

manger for hay. Mangers need to be deep enough to hold the hay, and have no gaps that

horses could catch legs in if they lay down beside it. They also need to be easy to clean out.

Wall mounted racks and hay nets are not recommended for every day use because they

make the horse or pony eat in an unnatural position with its head up instead of down.

Hay nets are also a hazard because horses can easily become entangled.